Lose track of time in a good way.
By Katrice L. Mines
When I imagined a long weekend in Nantucket, I envisaged
days gazing out to an oceanfront bathed in sails, legendary seafood and crisp
air. I arrived to more than I could imagine. Flying in through unnerving rain and
heavy fog that delayed our departure from Boston for hours, I was hardly
prepared for the sight that would emerge out of the storm like salvation as we
neared the quaint island; nothing but marine hues of blue and green below.
We arrived to Nantucket Memorial Airport, likely the most
charming terminal you'll ever encounter, and the visual welcome was an
appropriate preclude to the rest of the island where understated refinement is
its signature.
Some businesses were still open, others had shuttered for
the season though many would reopen for special holiday events as the year
wound to a close.
And suddenly the White Elephant, one of only a few historic Nantucket hotels, appeared pressed back alongside neighboring residences. Situated aptly on the waterfront, it was just minutes from the boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and museums I had glimpsed on my way through town. From the front, you feel as if you’ll be cozied in bed and breakfast-style accommodations, but there is more to this landmark of 66 chic, light-filled guest rooms, suites, and garden cottages than meets the eye. A quick stroll up the walkway from the welcome area opened up to a massive lawn of plush green grass and an enamoring harbor view. From here, it seems that everything is in optimal reach – from Nantucket’s lovely beaches to Brant Point Lighthouse and anywhere else you’d want to be on the island. From here, it could be conceivable, as well, to stay put – moving between chic but comfortable accommodations to Brant Point Grill, the hotel’s library and Nantucket spa – just beyond its welcome center.
But, Nantucket beckons you and knowing that virtually
everything is within walking distance draws you out.
One of your first stops, if you know a bit about the
island’s history (and even if you don’t), will be the Nantucket Whaling Museum.
Opened in 1929 and restored in 2005, the museum features a restored 1847 candle
factory, exhibition space, a rooftop observation deck overlooking Nantucket harbor
and the sperm whale skeleton as well as the captivatingly retold true story of
the Nantucket-based whaleship, the Essex.
Its silver screen adaptation – “In the Heart of the Sea” – illuminated the island when it hit
theaters in March. The film, directed by Ron Howard and starring Chris
Helmsworth, recounts the story of the Essex – crewed by Captain George Pollard
Jr., first mate Owen Chase, second mate Matthew Joy, and cabin boy Thomas
Nickerson. During its 1820 voyage, the ship was sunk after being rammed by an
enormous and enraged bull sperm whale, ultimately leaving its crew shipwrecked
at sea for 90 days more than 1,000 miles from land. After the attack, the crew
sailed for South America with just eight of the 20 sailors who set out on the
voyage surviving. The museum offers a 90-minute In the Heart of the Sea Walking
Tour, focusing on the survivors and their lives on Nantucket in later years;
fascinating lore.
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| Clockwise: Interior room at The White Elephant; TOPPER’s Lobster Roll; The Rev. Arthur Cooper and his family, fugitive slaves, were hidden in the attic of Anna Gardner’s parents’ house when bounty hunters came to the island in 1820; Southern Fried Chicken courtesy of The Boarding House. |
Round any corner in the town center and you’ll be on the
doorstep of something good to eat. But before even venturing out, the day after
I arrived, breakfast at Brant Point Grill ruined me for the first meal of the day
anywhere else on the island. Quite possibly the best French toast to ever touch
my palate, the Grill’s Vanilla Bean and Challah French Toast, topped with
spiced caramelized apples and butterscotch sauce was like a special occasion in
and of itself. A standard was set and my high expectations were met from one
end of the island to the other. TOPPER’s at The Wauwinet, a luxury hotel on the
northeast corner of Nantucket, is home to a lobster roll so delectably piled
that you just have to dive in; a theme that carried over to my last dinner. If
last impressions are as important as firsts, The Boarding House is an
appropriate finale. In the heart of Nantucket’s historic downtown, the dimly
lit cellar dining room was an unassuming backdrop for southern fried chicken,
braised collard greens, broccoli slaw, and macaroni and cheese, but it tied
things up nicely.
